Day 17 Feb 22 Bali-Java
Today is a big day, actually leaving Bali, leaving the comfort of a touristy place, the security of the airport being a bus ride away, and leaving the safety net of a system set up to basically cater to us(Bali is a tourist island, it’s life blood is millions of people flying in and out every year) There, we’re tourists. In Java we’re travelers.
Andres and I set a goal to break our 10 o’clock leave time(Our ideal situation is to do our riding in the first half of the day, leaving the second half to walk around) We got our things ready the night before, ate breakfast at 8 and hit the road by 9. Success. One day we’ll leave by 7.. one day. The ride was mellow, generally quiet, with 1 or 2 minor hills, before we knew it, we stumbled upon Gilimanuk, the port for Bali, and across the water was Java. We hopped on a ferry and within 20 minutes we were chugging across the strait separating the two islands. In about 30 minutes, we docked at Java, disembarked the ship, and embarking on the next leg of our journey.
We rode to the Banyuwangi town center, looking for wifi to contact our couch surfing host. I saw a sign reading “free hotspot” and we pulled off to eat lunch and hop on the net. Already, Java appears to be cheaper, a large dish and two juice drinks was 40krp($4) in totally, and the same meal in Bali would have been $4 for the disk and 15k for a watered down fruit drink. Andres and I were stoked.
Our hotel manager directed us to “5 junction” a main intersection where we were to had 4 km west to our hosts neighborhood. About halfway up the road we heard a calling to us, I was ready to decline whatever this person had to offer or sell and when I turned my head, much to my enjoyment, it was a fellow biker, not just a biker a tourer, fully loaded, scuffed bags and dirt on his frame. We pulled off to the side and started chatting, rain started so we went to the first restaurant and continued talking. I had always figured we’d run into a biker, but not so soon and not on such a random street, apparently he was sitting in an eatery, spotted us and hurried on his bike to catch up with us. Steve has spent a year on the road and just returned to his bike tour after time home and trekking through Nepal and India. We plan to go in similar directions so we’re going hook up for Indonesia or parts of it and ride together. I’m stoked because Andres and I will be able to pick his brain on his biking experiences and travel tips, etc.
After parting with Steven(he was headed up the road to find a local swimming pool), we headed over to our couchsurfing hosts house, it ended up being within minutes of our stop and we counted down the address number pulled off at the house. We were pretty out of place, two westerners on bikes loaded with a mass of gear, knocking on a front door in Banyuwangi, Indonesia. The neighbors were concerned and one came to say “this is not a hotel, what are you looking for” We strung together the few words we knew to say we can sleep here and the neighbor asked “Okay, then what is his name, who lives here?”. But we didn’t know his name, Belle on couchsurfer just told us to go to his address. Just as I was pulling out my phone to show the email correspondence, Ardy came out, said he was expecting us and both neighbors began to laugh and shook our hands. Phew.
Ardy is Belle’s friend and opened up a room in his house for Andres and I. 20 yrs old, born in Solo, moved to Banyuwangi when he was 5. Studying computer programming at Banyuwangi University and studies Chemistry on the side. He lives in this house with his brother Timas, while his parents live in a nearby village.
After settling in and meeting Ardy, we headed to the main street to explore Banyuwangi, our exploring consisted of eating a mound of street food, buying a cell phone, sewing supplies and looking for the local bike shop.
That evening we asked Ardy if he wanted to eat dinner with us at one of the local warungs that we saw to which he offered, “Do you want to eat traditional Banyuwangi food?”, this could not have been a better response. He led us passed the main road, made a couple turns down unlit back streets and led us to a local spot. No chairs, shoes off at the eating area, sitting on the floor and no utensils. The meal was great, fried fish, steamed greens, rice and a killer hot sauce. During our meal it started pouring rain, accompanied by lightning, and the power went off. This place was legit. Being off of Bali, there were not as many tourists around, as in none, literally, so I was a bit more of a sight to see here. A woman at the table next to us kept telling me “hello”, “good morning” and having me repeat phrases in Indonesian. I pointed to Andres and said “He’s American too!” But I guess there’s something different about a 6′ blonde American. Andres thinks it’s hilarious, as for me? We’ll see at what point I’m begging to get to a touristy area so I can hide out for a few days.
Steve texted us on out new phone to forward an invitation for the three of us to a wedding near his homestay. Wow, we’re really diving into Java and it’s only been 6 hrs! I had a huge dilemma though. Someone from the restaurant invited me to go to G-land with him the next day. G-land is a left hand reef point that throws a wicked barrel, its located on a nature preserve on the very southeast corner of Java. He was going to fish and I would check out the prospect of renting a board(which I would probably be willing to pay 50 bucks to rent). Only thing was, I texted him and our phone wasn’t working, none of our texts went through. Had I gotten through to him, I think the inner surfer in me would have crumbled and the wedding would have to be passed.
Day 18 Feb 23, Saturday
This morning, Ardy took us on a bike ride around Banyuwangi showing us the sites: the local park/recreation center, a market street, Banyuwangi’s biggest mosque, the city’s central park, and an old British fort. We ended our tour at a little warung to get Nasi pecel, and it was the one of the best meals I’ve had all trip. Rice, egg, weggies with peanut sauce, tofu and crisps all served in a banana leaf, for under about $.80. All these things we would have never found on lonely-planet or walking around on our own.
To pay Ardy back for his hospitality, we picked up some bike parts, headed back to his house and set to work. Replacing his brake pads, brake cables and shifter cables setting the cable tensions and limits on his derailleurs. All are tasks Andres and I have done routinely and easily back home at our bike coop, Bicycal. I’ll be honest, getting Ardy’s front derailleur working was one of the biggest missions we’ve ever under taken. The bolt would not clamp down onto his cable so it wouldn’t shift, we tried to use a different nut, tightenign it down as much as we could, sticking the cable through the same hole the bolt goes through, nothing worked. At one point, all at the same time we had all six of our hands holding some part of the cable using some tool moving something. Finally, I found a solution by adding washers between the nut and the bolt and the cable, this gave the bolt enough purchase to clamp down on the cable, leaving no wiggle room. Phew.
Belle, the girl that set us up to stay with Ardy came up to Ardy’s to meet us and hang out. Belle goes to Surabaya Univeristy, is studying english literature, and took this school year off to travel all over Indonesia.
While Andres was working on the last repairs, I went to return our phone. It turned out to be a POS. But we got what we paid for(it was 20 bucks). I went to return the phone, and it wasn’t necessarily an ordeal, but it was harder than it should have been. They offered me other phones to buy, I wrote down the names and prices and told them I needed to talk to my friend first and that I just wanted to keep the sim card and return the phone. That’s all. The helper came back out with 200rp while the phone was 220. I pointed to the price and said 220rp. She went to the back room and sat on the ground to talk with her associate, after about 10 minutes she came back out with a translation on her phone “Because you return, you get fined 20000” A 8% fine on returns? It seemed fishy as in it seemed like utter BS. I scanned the receipt for anything, but I can’t read Indonesian(Although I did not see any numbers on the receipt). I decided it was a wash, only 2 bucks, and left. Back at Ardy’s I asked Ardy, Belle and her friend if the fine was a regular thing. Obviously, it’s not. Gah, first real burn of Java. #bestburnnomination
After finishing Ardy’s bike, Andres and I showered and dressed up in our finest(as fine as can be) clothing. We asked them why it was open and we were allowed to come, they said that traditional Indonesian weddings have hundreds of people, old elementary school classmates, cousins, cousins friends, teachers, locals, neighbors, everyone. Andres and I headed up the street to meet Steve(3:15ish, wedding starts at 4) and we came across a festival/party like seen, everyone was motioning us to join them, but we didn’t see Steve anywhere, we thought it must be a different wedding, so we headed up to meet Steve at the local swimming pool. We just missed him, so back to the wedding we go. Again, without knowing who we are, we were directed to sit at a table with an assortment of appetizers and given tea and coffee. We saw the bride and groom leave in a big procession and we figured that must be a different wedding, and we were early for the next wedding at the same venue. One person at our table said he knew Steve and this was the right wedding. So we sat there and waited for the wedding to start, eating a ton of the awesome pastries/ rice snacks. When we stopped eating, they would motion for us to eat more. So we did. Andres and I sat there for a bit longer waiting for the wedding to start, around 4:00pm, nothing seemed to change, so we just kept sitting there eating appetizers. At 4:30 they motioned for us to move up to a long table dining table with white linen, at which point Andres and I were thinking should we really be here? They put main course items out: soup, steamed rice, grilled chicken, fried chicken. Slowly people at your table started getting up and leaving and Andres and I were still sitting there finishing our bowl of food. I was pretty sure one of two things was going to happen, the reality tv crew was filming us the entire time, or they were going to bring out a bill for our food. Neither happened and Andres suggested we not be those people still sitting at the table so we got up and sat back at our original table. Until they moved us again to a table up on the stage. Were we the guests of honor? What is going on?! Someone else sat down and we did the best we could to chat a bit. He was a family member of someone getting married, I tried to explain that we were friends with Steve and someone invited Steve and that person who was an original guest extended that invitation to us as well.. He had no idea what I was saying, so I just “Thank you, this is very fun” and he gave a big smile and nodded. Andres and I were confused. At 530ish a big group of dancers, drummers and locals came walking down the street and they brought more gifts, In this big procession was the couple we saw leave earlier, I guess this is the same wedding! The place was suddenly flooded with people, the couple was ushered up the stage and an old man took the mic and started pronouncing, something to the crowd all the while people were talking and the drummers were still banging. Finally, Steve showed up, he was in the procession! So we watched for a bit and decided to head up to his hostel to discuss climbing Kawah Ijen, the local volcano.
To wrap up, here’s what we found out about the wedding. It is a 3 day ceremony and this was the third day(the couple looked exhausted) Neighbors from all different sections of the surrounding village came to bring gifts and any time someone, or a group of people brought gifts, the pop music over the speakers stopped and the percussion band started their discordant tune. Of note, it was only women who brought gifts, and only men sat in the section with the appetizers while the women sat in a different section with the same appetizers(I think it was the same, couldn’t see). We were not the only ones that got that meal at the long dining table as every guest is seated there to eat the provided food. The procession goes through the surrounding village and the longer it is, the longer life the couple will have. If they can survive the three days, I’m sure they’ll do fine.
Okay, writing way to much to actually cover this trip, I always do that. So I’m going to cut it down so I can actually get this blog going.
Day 19 Feb 24 Sunday
Andres and I got up early, made sure we had the essentials for Ijen and headed up to be at Steve’s homestay by 7. Steve had to fix a flat and in the meantime, we went to look for a Warung to eat at, we followed Steve’s homestay owner’s directions but turned around when it seemed to be too far, headed back, bought breakfast, a sleeve of Oreo’s and peanuts and went to Steve’s but he had left in the wrong direction to look for us(back downhill)! I don’t know why the owner let him go that direction after telling us to go up, but anyways, he hopped on his motorbike and caught up with him. No biggie, he was back in 10ish.
At 8:00 am we started up the mountain, it was a good steady incline, definitely got our sweat up and quads worked up., Soon after leaving, the road turned from rough, worn asphalt, to dirt and baseball sized stones, it was managable, but my left knee was starting to have a bit of pain.
Back story: I toured down from San Francisco to San Louis Obispo on too tiny of a bike, clipped in with unfitted cleats, really hurt my knee(bicep femorus for the physiologists out there) and though about scrapping the trip, it progressively got better the plan was to ease our way into touring on this trip, which we did and any pain/agitation decreased as we slowly increased mileage etc)
At 9:30ish I caught up with Andres and Steve and told them I might back down on ride and wait a day for them to go up and back. We rested at our stop a bit, I massaged/stretched/wrapped and we found out the road got smooth not far ahead. I had another go and we checked in after the inclines on the smooth road and my pain backed off, phew. For the next few hours, Andres, Steve and I trudged our way up this mountain, stopping, breaking, resting and then tackling the next section. This was the gnarliest hill I’ve ever climbed, at some points, people were pushing their motor bikes! And granted, I was too as it was too steep and my back tire was just spinning under the weight of my bike and gear. 30 km, 2000m climb, it was tough, but everyone on their bikes/in their cars would shout “GO GO GO GO!” It helped. The best part was getting to the portion where the road went from silly steep to decent hill and the road was marked with “3km to finish” left over from a bike race, Tour de Ijen, started a few years ago. Then “1 km” and then 1400 meters. Around 2 I finally made it to the restaurant/food area(was really hoping it wasn’t just a halfway station.
It started raining right after we got to the top, thank god we decided to get an early start because the climb would have been damn near impossible, actually, it would have been impossible.
Andres Steve and I celebrated by gorging ourselves. For those close to me, they know I have a big appetite(the fridge at my old house of 56 people was jokingly labeled as “Chris McDermut’s personal fridge” with and added “only ½ of” Bike touring, has brought my appetite, and today it was on another level. Here’s what I ate, a bowl of noodles to start, fried noodle bowl as main course, 3 bananas, half a packet of biscuits, and a box of tim tam cookies.
Once we were satiated, we booked our room and and played the card game, asshole, and then made our way to eat dinner, fried noodle, 2 bananas, some cookies and a fried banana. We went to bed at 8 30 as we were getting up at 2 to hike up and down into the crater to see the famous “blue fire” The molten sulfur that pours out in the crater burns a brilliant blue as it comes out of the earth and its only visible at night. 8 o’clock was an appropriate bed time cause Ijen really took it out of us.
Day 20 Feb 25 Monday
2:00am, woke up to our alarm, it was dumping buckets of rain. We decided to sleep in an hour. 3 o’clock came and the rain had stopped, thank good. We got our clothes on, ate our breakfast( cookies and bananas) and set off. Along the trail we ran into 2 Balinese also hiking to see blue fire, and next we came across a miner. Yes, a miner, at 2 in the morning heading to the crater to get his next load of sulfur. The hike wasn’t to long, within 20 minutes we were to the miners cabin and in another 20 or 30 we were at the summit of the crater. We approached a thick fog, I figured it was cloud cover.. nope it was sulfur gas. This stuff is dreadful, your eyes water, your throat burns and you hold your breath as long as you can. At this point, we brought out our bandanas and soaked them in water to provide some breathing protection. Wish I brought my goggles, too. At the top, two miners offered there service as guides down, we told them we didn’t need them, and they went down with us anyway, telling us where to step and when to stop to let the loaded miners pass by on their way up(Keep in mind it is 3:50 am) I had seen Kawah Ijen in a documentary, or some tv show on Discovery channel and thought of Ijen as some obscure volcano on one of the thousands of Indonesian islands, now I was on it. Funny how things work out like that.
We made it to the bottom, where the mining occurs, molten sulfur pours out of the earth and the miners chip off huge blocks of cooled sulfur., hidden behind the plumes of smoke is the blue fire. Sorry, I didn’t get any great pictures of it, maybe if I had a tripod, but if you want to see awesome pictures, check out LINK As the sun began to rise we decided to head back up to get a view out to the flat lands, before the clouds came. The miners hustled over to us and told us they were our guides, so we gave them 30000 rupiah, about 3 dollars. I really hate situations like this. We tried to tell them that we didn’t need a guide and that we said that, and so we threw in another 10000rp. They said it was 50000rp, all we could do was apologize, as the only money we had left was to pay for the room. And at a certain point, you can’t pay everyone that decides to act as your guide or else your budget will dry up quick.
On the way back up, I guess I was labeled as “the giver”, one miner looked at me and motioned to his mouth, I asked makanan?(eat) Air?(water) I wasn’t sure which so I brought out my bread snack, and handed him a pastry, and decided to just let him have the last 3 that I had. It’s 5:45 and he’s carrying 70 kilos of sulfur up a crater rim, sure I’ll give him my snack. Within ten minutes, a miner making his way down asked for “Air”, again, I gave him my bottle, let him water fall some water and continued heading up. Then I stepped aside for two miners guiding a tourist down, one of them looked at me and then at my headlight still on my head, said “bagus”(good) and I agreed “bagus”, then point at it and said “for me”. That was a too much. I said sorry and kept moving. Andres Steve and I wandered around the rim a bit, checked out the views and headed down. Grabbed our stuff hopped on our bikes and descended the mountain. We made it back to Ardy’s by 9ish and got a proper breakfast, it seriously felt like mid afternoon. Breakfast was sub par, a chicken wing and rice for 8000rp, When they brought out the bill it it was 4000 more than what our items were priced. The waitress told Steve his was more because it was a big piece of chicken, it was already double the price of mine, marked as 15000rp. Steve poiinted out that what he ordered was marked at 15000, and she tried to say that it was a bigger piece of chicken. We ended up paying what was listed on the menu #nominationbestattemptedburn
Our afternoon consisted of napping, resting and organizing gear. Steve and I snacked down on some of the best street food you can find, an onion, leek, omelet in a pastry and a waffle pancake like item with bananas, chocalate, condensed milk and peanuts. Calorie counters wouldn’t even be able to look at this stuff. That night we packed our things, ready to leave the next day for Jember, next goal destination, Mt. Bromo.
fabulous! I feel like I am on the journey right with you guys. The writing is rich in every way.