First few days were iffy, but the recent few are just fantastic. Some of the best of the whole trip.
We left off at Yichang. I rode into the mountains and the change of scenery was much needed: mountains(duh), tea plantations, curving roads, hills. Though, I’ll play my broken record again.. the air is a bit hazy, a yellowy tinge.. Not stoked on that. I came across some bikers out for a day ride, we chatted a bit and then I climbed up into the folds of Hubei. Though it was my first mountain climb in a long long(not since December) it went smoothly. I made it to Hejiaping, found a bingguan where I chatted with the owner and his friend. His friend was so happy to chat, he treated me to my dinner and my stay(this broken-record track deserves to be played again) People here(in China) are unbelievably welcoming.
Before I could make it 5 minutes out of town, I met a fellow cyclist-he just started his journey from Wuhan to Tibet-I sat down with him a while and chatted a while. He was resting this day as he’s on very fresh legs. We bid each other smoot roads and tailwinds and I climbed my way out of town to the next summit. I decided against adding an additional climb to the local highest peak(2000m, 6600ft) because the air wasn’t clear, so I didn’t want to spend the effort for naught.. Descended in a steep valley and had lunch with some friendly folk in Langping. A few minutes after lunch I saw a road heading off to the left into a deep valley-I hadn’t yet confirmed a host in the next town-so I scrapped those plans and made my way through the valley. Really, really great scenery. A lot of curious smiles and thumbs up from people. Air is not completely clear, but getting better. And as I pulled into Shuibuya-area, I slammed on the brakes when I saw two bikes, whilst someone from inside the accommodation shouted out “ey”!! Two cyclist from Yichang on a 3 day ride. So I joined them for dinner and we talked bikes all night. Its been so hard to keep up on my writing.. cause I’m meeting and talking with soo many people. I’m managing to keep up my journal, which is foremost important.
Confirmed with my Jingzhou biker friend, Shamo(whom I know via biker friends I met in Tianmen) that I can stay with his wife’s parents. What a chain of people. This day I adjusted my route to make it to their town. About 20km, 12 miles of climbing. Good road, some good views, but lots of humidity. Stopped for lunch in a mountain town where not a single head did not turn. They said I’m the first foreigner to come through. I doubt that, but I think it seldom happens. Had a relaxing descent to Dalupo, where I called my friend’s wife Dad. He was a bit intense on the phone, and I couldn’t understand him. I was a bit worried it might be awkward.. that maybe he feels obliged to put me up and was grumbling something like “yeah yeah, I’m here I’ll meet you, fine” This was absolutely not the case. It’s just that people are intense on the phone, and phone conversations lack that emotional context(which you see).
I spent the next day with Deng Zhong Ming(the dad) and Deng Si Feng(the mom). Funnily enough, my Chinese last name is also “deng” 邓 and they truly felt like family. I continuously asked Deng Zhong Ming about his life in the village, farming, the mountains, Chinese politics, jobs, retirement. And he returned the answers with his own questions about life in the US. Deng Si Feng and I shared some time as well, I asked if I could help out in mashing up some raddish for the pigs, and we cracked open walnuts(which they grow) together. Deng Zhong Ming would excitedly show me what I was asking about saying “here, here I’ll give you a look” and would take me outside to see his land, trees etc. And we spent a few hours were was had a tea and chat at each of his neighbor’s houses.
And how could I forget to mention the blue skies! Ah finally, vibrant blue and warm sunlight peaked through the passing clouds. It was a fantastic night-day-night in dalupo.
The next day, I cruised through the mountains on a small road I found on a my cached map. More blue skies, and it was so damn quiet. The most prevalent noise I hear were bird whistles and wind. No rumble of cars(they were on the road, but not many- at all) and I was not within earshot of the freeway as I am avoiding the main route 318 to get deeper into the mountains. A crowd of curious people(30ish) gathered to watch me rest and drink. And from here I made my way out of the back end of town on an even smaller-classified road) a countryside road. I reaped the rewards. More bird songs, wind and the summit presented me with a view of a deep valley and qingjiang lake. I spent about 15 minutes here quietly sitting, just appreciating the view, the people and the trip. I descended for about 45 minutes, stopping very often to snap photos, and my descent was cut short by someone calling out for me to stop and eat at his 农家乐nong jia le(a countryside/village accommodation/restaurant) The bottom of my descent brought me to a ferry crossing of the qingjian river, at the base of 1000ft cliffs. So so epic. Climbed up the other side, tried to ask a few locals to camp out in their yard. No luck but I did find a road side spot.. Good thing I have my tent.
Ah yesterday, continued the climb through small small country roads and made it to a town whose name I have not decided if I’ll put on the internet. Someone stopped me to chat, suggested we eat lunch-which I agreed to- and then suggested to stay for the day and hang out-also which I agreed to. Here is some of of the best sights I’ve seen on the entire trip, with some of the best company.
This morning we’ll have breakfast, and if the rain holds off I’ll make my way towards Enshi, about 2-3 days away