June 22, 2013, Saturday, China Town(Singapore)-Desaru (Malaysia) 110km total: 5370km
Mid morning, we crossed Singapore to get to the ferry terminal in Changi Village. As we waited for enough people to fill the ferry, we laid down on the waiting benches. We were then scolded with “These benches are for people waiting for the ferry, and if you want to sit, you must sit properly. If you want to sleep, you can go outside.” Firstly, other people are not sitting properly. Secondly, there is enough room to lay down and have everyone here sit. Thirdly, we weren’t sleeping, we’re reading. But I didn’t talk back…
When 12 people came we loaded our bikes onto a tiny tiny passenger boat, crossed the water, quickly went through immigration and started the quiet riding along the coast. The road was quiet, nearly empty, in fact.
We stopped at a village to see how far Desaru was and pulled up to the only restaurant we saw. It appeared to be hosting a function, so we circled the block looking for any store to refresh and ask for directions. None. We circled back to the event and asked about distances and places to camp. 15km to Desaru, not bad. We asked about food options and they invited us to sit down and eat. Score! Early dinner. The restaurant look-a-like was an engagement party. The parties are usually much smaller than the weddings, just about 200 people that cycle through over the course of an afternoon(usually four hours).
The ride was quick to Desaru, where we scouted out the camping option. 10RM($3)/person. We were reluctant to break our streak of free accommodation, so we discreetly set up tents in the corner of the adjacent field, out of view of the few passing cars. It was our first time stealth camping, it was pretty exciting. I hopped into my tent as soon as possible to escape the mosquitoes, read from my kindle and fell asleep early. Really early. Only to be woken up by the pool I was laying in, it was so damn hot! Other than the heat, it was a good sleep.
June 23, 2013, Sunday, Desaru-Mersing(Malaysia) 150km total: 5520km
Up at 7, on the road by 8. The road was well paved, undeveloped and had little traffic. Unfortunately you can’t see the beach from the road. As soon as the road hit the beach, about 20km out of Desaru, we stopped to rest and take in the scene, learning that there was a village 20km further. We stopped for Roti Chanai and chatted with a fellow patron at the small roadside stall. We talked about Malaysian politics vs American politics and after our conversation he treated us to the meal!
The road continued north lulling over a few hills and turned inland to the bigger highway. At the junction we ate some lunch, relaxed and then started the worst 80km of the entire trip. It was hot, straight, rolling hills through palm oil. It was un.believably.boring. Really though. Just row after row of palm oil trees, for 80km!! I was burnt out by the end. Andres and I finally made it to Mersing, stopped for a drink and then scanned the road for sleeping options.
Many friends in Indonesia and Malaysia suggested sleeping at mosques, yet we had yet to actually pursue the option. Soon into the small town, I saw a mosque, pointed it out to Andres and suggested that we finally try it out. We approached the members, I told them we’d ridden from Desaru and were looking for a place to sleep. Quickly, the Imam(head cleric figure) ok’d our request and invited us to sit down, snack and chat with all the members before prayer. We shared our experiences of our trip and admitted we had never been in a mosque before. It seems silly, being in a Muslim region(Indonesia/Malaysia) for so long. I’d had many close interactions with Islam: seeing two mosques bookend a village only a kilometer long, seeing women with head scarves and men in silk suits, being woken up at 4:30am by the call the prayer playing out of the speakers on the mosque next door. I’d interacted with plenty of Muslims throughout Indonesia (the country is >90% Muslim) and Malaysia(>%60) and learned through conversation, yet, this was my most intimate interaction with Islam, thus far.Truthfully, back home in the US, Islam is somewhat taboo. One member even made a point to tell us that not all Muslims are violent, the one that are, aren’t practicing their true values. We were welcomed with open arms.
While they prayed we went out into town, checked out the beach, ate dinner and hit up a cafe. Upon returning we talked a bit more with the remaining patrons, discussing what a trip to Mecca was like. Around 11, it was time for bed, and a member was gracious enough to sleep at the mosque with us to make sure we weren’t bothered or doubted. I actually felt bad about him doing this. I’d be find with sleep in a covered corner, yet we had a protector. Although I didn’t want him to be stuck there, I do want to acknowledge how hospitable the members were at the Mersing mosque. Thanks!
June 24, 2013, Monday, Mersing-Batu Pahat (Malaysia) 120km total: 5640km
The mosque members offered for us to go back to sleep after they finish their morning prayer. We carried our momentum by eating our nasi lemak(given to us by patrons the night earlier), and swiftly mounting our bikes by 5:45ish. It was dark, but beautiful. We rode out of town, in between the silhouettes of hills on either side of us surrounded by a nice cool mist. We honestly could have been riding through a trash dump, but whatever it was, it looked quite nice under the moonlight. The sun slowly rose and we rode through a bit of palm oil into forest. Woohoo! Different scenery! For short bit. Then we rode through some palm oil, crops, some more palm oil and then inland suburban towns. Nothing spectacular. This was one of those days where you’re riding your bike simply to get somewhere.
At 2 we made it to Zul’s house, and made up for our lack of sleep from the nights prior. Naps are often a must while touring, poor sleep and 100km of biking=full body tiredness. Zul took us for an early dinner to a local warung. Andres went to go use wifi at a café and I walked further on to walk around the university. It was clean, well maintained and modern. But it lacked any architectural character. It was still interesting to walk around and wonder what life would like to be a student here. Then back to Zul’s for bed.
June 25-27, 2013, Tuesday, Batu Pahat-Malacca (Malaysia) 120km total: 5760km
Last day of riding until Malacca! We set off early and hauled ass down the suburban village/town highway. At one point, we had a 27km/hr avg speed for 1 hr. 120km done in 5hrs. Phew. We spent a couple days here hanging out with Howard and and the other guests. There were some authentically Chinese guests, so I was able to practice speaking a fair bit. Yahoo. Although Malaysia has a presence of Chinese section of the population, my conversations are limited to the basics, while on the road. “How much is this?” “How many?” “I’m going to…” etc. But with more time I’m able to get deeper, discussing why I’m on the trip, my views between countries. It’s nice to let the Chinese out. China is still a few countries away!
We also took this opportunity to check out some more of the food options. Asam laksa at Jonker 88, is a must. It’s a spicy curry soup, Thai inspired and Chinese produced, with noodles and less of the sweet-spice flavor that Thai food can have. Wan-tan mie( wan tan noodles) as well. And veggies and rice! Great food all around in Malacca.
A bit on Politics
While here I witnessed active democracy. Yes, there is democracy outside of the US. The local government decided that the Jonker Walk, the main street in Malacca where street vendors set up every weekend to sell drinks, food, snacks, and trinkets. This is the main weekend attraction for domestic and international tourists alike. The back story is that although the incumbent government won in this most recent election, they lost in this particular district. The government retaliated by declaring the event is a traffic obstacle. The Jonker Walk has been going on for fifteen years. We were in Malacca for the first night that is was supposed to be shut down. The entrances to China town were lined with Police and the in early evening, the vendors posted up at Jonker Walk’s busiest end to block the traffic, holding signs and demonstrating. They didn’t hold up traffic indefinitely, but long enough to cause cars and buses to lay on their horns. Despite the build up, there was no direct conflict between police and protesters. The event carried on as it usually would on a weekend and community members signed petitions to save Jonker Walk.
For disclosure, I am relaying the information I learned by talking with Howard and a few community members at the protest.
Imbued in this conflict is Malaysia’s underlying racial tensions. Malaysia had three distinct groups: Malay, Indian, and Chinese. Compared to Indonesia, Malaysia appears to be very diverse: Malay, Indian, Thai and Indian cuisine. Mandarin, Hawkian, Cantonese, Malay and Tamal are all spoken here. In Indonesia, when I did find anyone, ethnically Chinese, our conversation was limited to Indonesian. All three groups are established in Malaysia, and, very separate. The Jonker Walk area is predominately Chinese, whereas the incumbent government is Malay, yielding political tension.
Malaysian educations do not fall along an explicit line, it’s explicit. Government scholarships for education are for Malay-descent Malaysians. The other races must pay for education themselves. Surprising, right? This is 1960’s Civil RIght’s Movement conflict-stuff, and its 2013! And the US is still not at all clear of its discrimination. Malaysia has a far way to come.
Most of the content regarding scholarships I am relaying from Steve’s family members and our friend Mohammed whom we met in the Cameron Highlands.
so the ‘pasar’ in jonker street is closed now? :O