Day 103, May 19, 2013, Sunday, Padang-Bukit Tinggi 90km Total: 3880km
I was intending on heading out at sunrise but got chatting with the other travelers at the homestay. The guests gathered out front, waved good bye, took photos, and wished me luck. It was a proper send off, a great way to start the ride. Thank goodness I didn’t fall on my face as I left.
Everyday prior, Padang was overcast and a bit rainy. Not today. Clear, blue skies, and a strong equatorial sun. Stopped to pump up a low tire, then for a juice about 30k out of town. Around 11, the sun was beating hard and I was on the lookout for fresh coconuts. My first stop yielded none, the owner directed me a few hundred meters down the road where I drank two fresh coconuts at 4k each.
It got close to 12 and I decided to sit longer, eat lunch, and talk with the staff/family/friends. #languagetip force yourself to use the language all the time, this is cliché, but constant practice is helping me the most. The classic questions were asked: Where are you from, what’s your name, where are you going, how old are you, how can you speak Indonesian, etc. There’s one more classic that I have yet to discuss on this blog: Do you have children? I’m 23, hell no! When I reiterate that I’m too young, the point is lost. Here in an Indonesia village(well, cities too) I’m at a ripe age for having a family, maybe even a second or third child.
The next question is if I have a wife. I’m riding my bicycle for some indefinite amount of time around the world… but they still ask. A “No” incites some excitement and they suggest “Do you want an Indonesian wife?” I’m am biking around the world! How the heck could I get a wife now? I can’t say “no” as that might come off harsh. I usually brush off the question by saying after my bike trip I will return to Indonesia and look for someone to marry. Then they all smile welcoming the proposal.
Leaving the warung took a bit of time, as we took pictures of every possible combination of people. mom-me, mom-two daughters-me, brother-one daughter-me-whole family, etc, etc…etc. After five minutes I gave them a two picture warning and set off.
200 yards down the road I got a flat, and had to put the bike down, take out my gear, remove the wheel and take off the tire. In the process someone pulled up on their motorbike and asked something shocking: “Are you okay? Do you need help?” Three months in Indonesia and this was a first. No staring, no pictures, no prodding questions while I’m focused on something else. He even bought me tea from the shop next door. It was a pleasant surprise. There ended up not being a hole in the tire, 3rd mystery flat of the trip. I pumped it back up and started into the hills.
I climbed the foothills in the heat and had to stop for cold drinks before the real climb started. Around the corner, the road entered a river valley, shaded by the steep slope and cooled by the wind. An hour or two’s climb brought me to the next town. I got rained on for about an hour. The rain clothing is useless when climbing uphill in 25+C It’s annoying to be soaked, but at least it cooled me off. I made the turn towards Bukit Tinggi and continued climbing.
This route had too much traffic. All the roads previously were less traveled and out of the way, but this was a main artery for traffic in Sumatra. On smaller highways my riding style is to sit right in the middle of the lane, forcing the traffic behind to pass only when there is a legitimate opening on the opposite side; it also forces the oncoming traffic to wait to overtake until you’ve passed. This also leaves quite a few feet of room for you to maneavur to the edge of the road , if need be, whereas if you’re sitting on the edge, you don’t have much leeway. Consider this a #cyclingtip. This road was too big! Cars and trucks still had enough room to skirt around me and so did the oncoming traffic. Zooming within a foot or two of my inside. Someone’s going to get a rock in their windshield soon..
At the hill-crest, a man sitting at a rest stop called out making a drinking motion with his hand. Usually, I pass on, but I deserved a rest, so I stopped to talk rest and refresh. Another man came up to talk, he did the same ride from Padang to Bukit Tingi the day prior. He is a bike-to-worker and knew our friends Ozy and Toto! What a small world.
We took some pictures and I zoomed downhill into town, enjoying a sunset view as I rode between two volcanoes. I did the stop-and-ask, being directed further and further down the road. I looked around, but couldn’t see the homestay. I spotted two westerners and asked if they knew (there’s always a slight chance that they might be staying in the same place) They didn’t recognize the name, saying they were staying in the homestay a few doors down from where we were chatting. They told me it was comfortable and decently priced 80k($8), but I told them I already had friends at the homestay, Rajawali. Although they couldn’t direct me, we talked-bikes for a bit as one of them, is planning a trip from Sweden to China.
After talking I called Andres and he agreed to meet me at the clock tower. About 30 seconds later, I saw him walking down the street. I was right next to our homestay, and once I finished loading my stuff into my room I saw the two Swedes. Guess I can’t count on westerners either.
Day 104, May 20, 2013, Monday, Bukit Tinggi-Danau Maninjau 25km, Total: 3905km
Today was the day Andres, Steve and I decided we needed to make an action plan for our last stretch of Sumatra. We didn’t want to buy a last minute flight-ticket, so it was time to bite the bullet, find some wifi and figure it out.
We discussed our northern route with Walli, the ex-pat, German, homestay owner. He told us which towns had accommodation etc. Then he dropped one of the most useful pieces of information we’ve received on the entire trip: There’s a ferry from Tanjung Balai to Port Klang (right near KL), Malaysia. For the past month, we’d been asking locals if they knew the ferry situation: we’d heard many mixed reports, but no one had mentioned Tanjung Balai! We planned to go to Toba, relax a bit, then head to an Orangutan preserve, and catch a train from Medan to Tanjung Balai on the day of our visa expiring. Thank you Wali!
If you are a traveler, here’s the info: There are no ferries out of Belewan, the port of Medan. Tanjung Balai has a ferry to Port Klang(the port for KL) and maybe to Dumai(you have to clarify that) There are ferries from Dumai to Batam, and from Batam you can get to Singapore. The Singapore-Batam ferry is expensive, 30 or 40 bucks, not too mention you will probably need to stay in Batam for a night.
We divided up the research to get departure times and prices. There is indeed a train from Medan to Tanjung Balai and a ferry from Tanjung Balai to Port Klang. After mining the information, we packed a few items and rode to Lake Maninjau, a highland lake set into a steep walled volcanic crater. The ride down the crater edge is incredible, 44 switchback turns, descending about a couple hundred meters of elevation.
Day 105, May 21, 2013, Tuesday, Danau Maninjau-Bukkit Tinggi 35km, Total: 3940k
We set off early to finish climbing out of the crater before it was too hot. I got to turn #22 in about 30 minutes. Woah, that was pretty easy. On our way up, a recreational cyclist zoomed passed me at 20km,or even faster. He must be preparing for the Tour De Singkarak, a bike race through the Sumatran mountains, with a few thousand international contestants. A few more riders zipped passed us. Seeing them got all us to wonder how fast we’d be if we were on unloaded, carbon fiber frames. I don’t think we’d win.. but I think we’d hold our own in the pack.
We finished the 17ish km in a little over an hour. Steve and I got some ice cream at a totally random village ice cream shop. They only had two flavors, sweet potato and pumpkin. Although it was the only village ice cream shop in all of Indonesia, they made some pretty good stuff. On our way back, Steve and I decided to go back a different way, adding another 10km hill climb. Damnit, we thought we were going the more direct way. We were dumped out on the main highway 5km above Bukkit Tinggi. Andres took the original route, beating us by an hour.
We were almost going to hit the road that same day but we decided to rest as the next five days are going to be a tough 450km up and down the Sumatran mountains.
Day 106, May 22, 2013, Wednesday, Bukkit Tinngi-Panti 100k Total: 4040km
The road out of Bukkit Tinggi was a long downward stretch of smooth road. Luckily, we’ve traveled on the same route as some stages for the Tour de Singkarak, thus newly paved roads. It was a pleasant surprise.
As we descended, we looked to turn off to see one a huge jungle flower, one of the largest. As the hill flattened out, we asked around for the flower. It was as the top of the hill. And to be honest we did not feel like climbing back up.
The road bottomed out at 200m, and we stopped at the equator acted a bit touristy and took some photos of us riding across. In reality, we had crossed the equator a hundred meters-ish before the monument…
Rode over an easy 300m climb to Lubuk Sikaping and stopped for juice and snacks. We got there so early that we decided to do knock off an extra 30km, getting to Panti by 2ish
I spotted a bike tourer as we sat down for lunch. “A biker!”. We zipped out of the warung and called him over. Are we being hypocrites for hating when people yell at us but now calling out to this cyclist? Maybe. He heard our shouts and joined us for a short bit. He’s a local from Bandung, heading from Medan back home for a few weeks. We extracted as much road information as we could, the locals aren’t as reliable for that information.
After lunch, we checked into rooms at one of the two inns in town. All three of us fell into a nap and woke up to a tremendous downpour, with bright flashes and immediate, deafening thunder. We had already taken a shower so we decided duck into the restaurant next door to stay dry, versus walking through town. When we paid for our bill the money collector told us each of our meals was 20k. We disagreed. I pointed out that we all had different second dishes. The server had said that our beef rendang dishes were 15k, and Steve and I split a veggie dish that should not be more than 5k. We asked the server how much she told us the Rendang was, “15k”, and the money collector and hotel manager had an egg-on-face look. Ha! We ended up just paying 15k.
After the rain died down, Andres and I went to walk through town and saw a huge backup of traffic along the main road. A nice woman came over to chat, sharing that the road was blocked with many fallen trees. Five or more. Thank goodness we weren’t riding on that stretch of road when the rain came down.
Day 107, May 23, 2013, Thursday, Panti-Penyebungan 110k, total:4150km
The next morning we did our morning routine. I got bowls from the restaurant next door to eat my oatmeal. The guy that got the bowls for me followed me back, sat down and blankly stared as I ate my oatmeal, inserting the occasional question. My earrings caught his eye, “Do you have another one?” “Yes” (I saw where this is going) “Can I have it?” “No.” *momentary pause* “Why?” What a bold question. I simply told him “Because it’s mine.” This is the third time that someone has spotted my earrings and straight-up asked for them. They point out that they have an earring hole. Yeah, I see, doesn’t mean they’re leaving my ears.
As I was finishing up breakfast, our friend we chatted with on the road last night limped out of one of the rooms. A tree fell right in front of her, she and her friend crashed their motorcycle, he broke his back and died that night. It seemed so surreal. We hit the road with a fair bit to think about. Life is precious. You never know what’s going to happen. Stay safe. Value your friends and family.
We did a good climb over a mountain pass and then up a short climb and back down, getting to Penyengunan just as the sun was setting. All the homestays, inns etc did not have any available rooms. Finally we found one off the main road. It was 150k/room. Steve decided to check in and Andres and I were going to look at an option 1km down the road. We never found it, despite asking around and riding 5km further. Andres and I decided this is the night we see if we really can crash at a police station.
We got some masakan padang and sate and returned to a police station we’d seen earlier. We pulled up into the station and an officer broke from watching tv to talk. We asked if we could sleep there, suggesting the floor as an option. He told us to wait and left to speak on the phone. After five minutes he came back saying “You can sleep at my house” We took him up on the offer and chatted with him and the other officers until he got off work(watching a movie). He put on his uniform top, hopped on a motorbike, with no helmet, and led us across town to his house. We pulled our bikes inside and slept on the floor of his living room.
Day 108, May 24, 2013, Friday, Penyebungan-Sidempuan 80km, Total: 4230km
Today was quick and easy, a slight uphill along a river valley and then some 5k of hills at the end. Showered up, and then hopped in an angkot across town to get lunch. Andres and Steve headed back to the hotel but I decided to meander.
I peered into shops, took a few pictures, priced up other accommodation and made my way to the end of the main street. On my way back I stopped by a proper gym and paid 10k to use the facilities. Next stop was a huge market complex, where I bought some bananas and dates. After a few hours out, I made it back to the hotel. Steve, Andres and I got dinner nearby, picked up breakfast on the way back and some desert as well.
Day 109, May 25, 2013, Saturday, Sidempuan-Tarutung 100km, Total: 4330km
Today we reach the highlands. Early breakfast, early start, early hill climb. Right out of town we started climbing an 800 meter climb, then descending a bit into a junction town where we had breakfast. Then one more short climb to the the next peak.
After this second peak, I fulfilled one of my fantasies. I was cruising down at 35km/hr, rounded a turn and further down the hill I saw a group of two hundred+ students on a clearing off the road. They were likely middle school age, wearing scout uniforms(this is the best way I can describe it). There were adults amongst them trying to organize the group, making arm motions to settle down.
I knew what I had to do. I took in a big breadth, zooming nearer, once I was parallel with the group I let out the best “HELLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOO MMMMMMMMMMMMIIIIISSSSTTTTAAARRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!” I could muster as I flew passed. Hundreds of them turned to see a very random westerner speeding through the Sumatran mountains on a bicycle. Concentration broken. If people are going to shout that to me every minute for months, I’ve got to strike back at some point.
I caught up with Steve 1km down the road and he asked “Please tell me you didn’t.” “Of course I did!” (He knew that something like this was a goal of mine) We laughed our way around the next few turns.
35k/hr became 10k/hrwhere we had to navigate torn up sections of road and truck traffic, eventually making it all the way back down to a river valley in the lowlands. Lunch at the base of the climb, and ice cream to cool off. We were going to go for a swim in the river, but the riverbank was in line with the back end of village homes. The idea of jumping into a river was awesome, but the realization that its filled with fecal matter sequestered the urge to swim.
After lunch we started our second mountain climb of the day, away from the river, up the mountain. We still weren’t in the highlands, so I was still getting roasted. At the crest of one incline I saw a woman carrying coconuts. I immediately pulled off to inquire about a purchase. 4k each, I’ll take two. I sat down and they cut them open and I rested/drank in the shade of their porch. A few minutes into me drink, I looked up to find 15 people just watching me drink. Just watching. I talked with the woman and her husband, but the rest of the crowd just silently stared. Any person who left was replaced by the next curious villager. I finished drinking my coconuts under uncomfortable scrutiny, and then caught up with Steve resting a ways up the climb.
The road meandered up and up I was about to bonk(when you’re tapped of energy) and I needed some calories.After a few of the tough sections some men offered us a drink, a coconut drink, woohoo! We sat down to refresh, but we were cut short when we found the drink to be alcoholic. Not what we want on our second 800m climb of the day. We politely declined, and I pulled from my stash of dates to refuel.
Soon, the road topped out and we descended a bit to Tarutung, meeting up with Andres at Hotel Palapa.
After washing up we walked through town, very briefly, and ate Ayam penyet at a restaurant. It was tasty, but the two prior mountains left me famished, so I had a second dish as well. Andres was tired and excused himself early. He said he’s leaning towards resting a full day here tomorrow. Steve and I stayed to finish our meals and agreed we could push on all the way to Toba, and have Andres meet us there.
I returned to the hotel and read a bit while Andres rested before going to bed. Around 8 or 9, Andres jumped out of bed and dove into the bathroom. The next hour was filled with a cacauphonus mix of bathroom noises. He was certainly more than just tired. I got him a pitcher of water, and continued reading outside the room. He was down and out, I gave the report to Steve that we’re heading out alone tomorrow and fell asleep at 10.